2013/04/26

Saint George’s Day in Barcelona: roses, Books ... and Collective Security

Love and Culture.  Saint George’s Day in Catalonia is a treat to the senses, with hundreds of stalls selling books and roses and a mass of humanity peacefully taking over the streets. It is not surprising that the day is often referred to as one devoted to love and culture. Unaware tourists never cease to be amazed by this unexpected sight and gladly join the celebration. For recent immigrants, Saint George’s Day is often their first contact with Catalan culture, opening the way to integration in their new country. Wherever you are on 23 April, never forget to buy your lady a red rose, or the man in your life a book.

Two red roses stand out among the multitude, in Barcelona’s Rambles


Saint George’s Military Dimension.  Having said that, we have to be realistic. We live in a dangerous world, and while roses and books are a great sight, and love and culture should certainly play a role in our lives, they can only thrive in democracy and freedom, which have their fair share of enemies. These enemies, be they state or non-state actors, are not going to be deterred, much less defeated, by flowers and literature. One does not stop a terrorist or a common or garden dictator by brandishing a nice red rose before him. This is why responsible nations work together to defend their national security, be it at a global level or on a regional plane, through alliances such as NATO.

Catalonia, as a responsible nation willing to contribute to the Allies’ security, is ready to undertake such commitments. Catalans understand that freedom never comes free, and that a nation not willing to sacrifice for her security and that of her allies simply does not deserve liberty. That is one of the few advantages of being a slave, you don’t have to take difficult decisions, you can afford to look the other way.

It is thus no coincidence that Catalonia’s Patron Saint is Saint George, who embodies the fight against evil. Let us never forget something: the red rose rises from the dragon’s blood. The rose is only born after the dragon has been killed. Without security and defence, love and culture cannot survive. We are happy to share our patron saint with countries like England, which have shown throughout history their willingness to stand up to tyranny.  

Thus, while Saint George is surely a symbol of Catalonia’s language and literature, and of romantic love, it also represents the country’s commitment to collective security.  It embodies Catalonia’s commitment to the defence of the Free World, of the maritime democracies led by the United States, against the myriad threats in the horizon and beyond. The fact that we share Saint George with some of these countries only reinforces this.


Saint George slaying the dragon, on the façade of the Catalan Government Palace in Barcelona.


The Coronela at Montjuic’s Castle on Saint George’s Day Eve.  Despite the above, the military side of Saint George has not always been that clear in Catalonia over the previous century, at least publicly. Some circumstances, which the country is fortunately leaving behind, meant that many Catalans ignored their history or had a very limited vision of the nation’s past. At the same time, some Catalans misguidedly reacted to oppression not by struggling to join the concert of normal nations but by holding dreams of neutrality. It is by now clear that this is not possible, you can either be a slave and not care when peace is threatened, or be free and join in its defence. There is no place for free riders.

Evidence of this growing maturity was once more clear this year on Saint George’s Day Eve, when members of a military re-enactment group named after La Coronela paid homage to Catalonia’s patron saint and his flag in the Castle of Montjuic, overlooking Barcelona. La Coronela was the name of Barcelona's militia, comprising reservists, citizen-soldiers called upon to defend the city and the country when under threat. Barcelona’s guilds provided the manpower, being also jointly responsible for equipment with the Crown. Each guild provided a company. At the War of Spanish Succession (1701-1714), the Coronela expanded to five battalions, playing a key role in the defence of Barcelona. Similar units could be found in other Catalan towns.



Saint George’s military side is also apparent in English history, as clear from the poster above, employed in recruitment efforts during the First World War.

In its modern reincarnation, the Coronela is working hard to bring back to life the memory of the unit, while helping rebuild Catalonia's military values and traditions. It is these values and traditions which will allow Catalan troops to soon be serving shoulder to shoulder with those from other Allies.  

The event was notable, among others, for the homage to Saint George’s flag, which one can find all over Catalonia, often part of the coats of arms of local councils and all sorts of organizations. The public gladly joined, and everybody displayed the solemnity and respect to be expected on such an occasion. The following are some pictures taken during the event.


A Coronela officer.




Coronela troops entering Montjuic Castle carrying their flags, with Saint George’s leading.



The sun sets, after the homage to Saint George’s flag.



We could thus see how, as Catalonia moves forward to recover her lost liberty, she is also advancing to exercise her responsibilities. Saint George’s Day will always be the day of love and literature, of roses and books, in Catalonia. From now on, however, once the country is determined to recover her lost freedom, it cannot but also be the day of the slaying of the dragon. Without its blood, there is no red rose. The international community must confront many dragons, let us there be no doubt that Catalonia will stand ready to contribute to their defeat.


Alex Calvo is a Professor of International Relations and International Law, Head of the IR Department, and Postgraduate Research Director, European University (Barcelona Campus). An expert on Asian security and defence issues, he got his LLB from the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS, University of London) and is currently doing an MA in Second World War Studies at the University of Birmingham. He is a former teaching and research fellow at the OSCE Academy in Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan).


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