Picture the scene…
You’re on holiday in Catalonia, strolling down the street, soaking up the vibe and minding your own business. You round a corner and stumble across a group of people in a circle holding hands, tapping their heels and from time to time throwing their hands up in the air. Congratulations! You have chanced upon the traditional Catalan dance of the sardana.
Although it can seem a bit tame compared to the flamboyance of flamenco, you might be surprised to learn there’s a lot more to the sardana than meets the eye.
A custom close to Catalan hearts
So where did it come from? The origins of the dance are hotly debated, but what is certain is that the sardana was around in 19th-century Catalonia. It developed out of the Renaixença (Renaissance) movement that took place around that time, as Catalans began to grow more confident in reviving their language and culture. The sardana became a symbol representing the feeling of regional pride and Catalonia’s distinct identity from Spain.
By the 20th century more and more people had begun to take an interest in celebrating the sardana, and its sedate little skips and hops were being danced all over Catalonia. As a vital and visceral symbol of Catalan patriotism, it was inevitably always going to be a target when the dark days of Franco arrived. The regime promptly banned people from dancing the sardana, but despite their best efforts, the dance has survived through to the 21st century.
In fact, overcoming this suppression has increased its symbolic significance for local people. In 2010 the Catalan government added the sardana to Catalonia´s festivities heritage catalogue and declared it a festivity of national interest.
You put your left leg in…
When the music pipes up, couples take to the floor (or plaça, in this case) and link arms to form a small circle. If you’re lucky enough to have a partner clued up on the moves, you’re all set. Make sure you choose your position carefully, as each pair should stay together. If you don’t have a partner, or just feel like showing off your solo skills, look for a circle made up of singletons. Some of the circles will be made up of performers from actual dance groups (called colles) – you can usually tell them apart from the general public as they’ll be wearing some sort of uniform.

Where to catch a sardana display
You’re virtually guaranteed to see the sardana being danced at the many festivals that take place throughout Catalonia. It’s very popular at the Sant Joan celebrations in June, or at La Mercé festival in September. If you have the time, we recommend you hop on a train and head outside of Barcelona to watch locals dance the sardana in a nearby town, to really capture the spirit of the dance in a more authentic setting.
In Barcelona itself, sardanes are danced outside the Cathedral every Sunday at noon, as well as on Saturday evenings around 6.30pm. Plaça de Sant Jaume in the Gothic quarter is another favourite spot on Sunday evenings. Throughout the summer keep an eye out for the various district festivals, where you’re bound to catch the locals dancing their hearts out on a local square till it gets dark. See you in the circle!
Source: Oh, Barcelona
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